After a too-short Sata Airlines redeye (4 hours), on which our baby slept soundly on us but tended to kick and roll every time we drifted off ourselves, we arrived in Sao Miguel to comfortably warm salty air and clear skies at 7 a.m. local time. While our former kid-free selves would have typically powered through and not had accommodations ready until the standard 3 p.m. check-in time, we knew better and booked our room starting the night before so we could arrive and settle in right away. This was possibly the best decision of our entire trip. We all immediately napped for 3-4 hours so we could make it through the rest of the day. We then spent the afternoon exploring the surrounding area (black sand beaches along greater Lagos/Ponta Delgada’s shores, tiny nearby towns, narrow winding roads through rolling farmland and hoards of sheep, etc.) and then stocked up on kitchen supplies at the local market. We returned home, opened some Vinho Verde, fired up our wood burning outdoor grill, cooked dinner and relaxed in our botanical haven through sunset.

The next day we woke to some rain, and our hosts suggested we head to the hot springs, a favorite to-do of theirs in bad weather. We went to Caldeira Velha with baby in tow. We heard the upper hot spring was cooler than the lower ones, so we walked all the way to the top and started there. It was perfectly warm, almost cool, and quite large with lush rocks and a beautiful waterfall. Because it started to get chilly, we headed to the smaller pools below that were much warmer, but not too hot. Kind of like a baby bathtub in the wild. All of us were into it.

The remaining days were much nicer and filled with memorable stops. We loved driving along the southwest coast and visiting Ponta da Ferraria, where a hot spring feeds into the ocean. You climb down some craggy lava rock into a natural black-bottomed pool which is super warm, but with every wave from the ocean you get a rush of cool water and bounced around a bit. Due to the precarious descent into the water, we took turns swimming and didn’t bring in the babe. But totally worth a stop.

We drove the north coast and stopped at the local tea plantations in Porto Formoso, with miles of tea plants sprawling along hilltops over the ocean. Free tea tastings too! We drove the south coast and stopped at impressive black sand beaches surrounded by enormous cliffs between Caloura and Vila Franco do Campo, weaving through adorable tiny towns and green farms along the way. We drove up a number of switchbacks to reach Our Lady of Peace chapel, built into a mountainside in what felt like the middle of the clouds.

As far as hikes, Lagoa do Fogo and Sete Cidades were high on our list. We were thwarted by crazy intense fog several days in a row with Lagoa do Fogo but finally made it on our last day. Beautiful green-blue water surrounded by greenery and the ocean, with the option to hike down to the lake’s edge. In Sete Cidades, we hiked the caldeira’s edge for a half-day (with monstrous – i.e. 10+ foot-tall – hydrangea plants surrounding us, plus some friendly cows) and then walked the lake and through town. We also walked the other side of the crater along a winding path to the classic viewpoint to see both lakes and the town from high above. Trailheads on both fronts were not the easiest to identify, but we figured it out and locals were always helpful. The paths were generally easy with mostly mild inclines and very nap-friendly for the baby in our pack.

We also wandered around Parque Terra Nostra in Furnas, with its botanical gardens, hot springs and ancient-looking statues and structures. Awesome place to get lost in. Separately we spent some time walking around Ponta Delgada – hitting up the farmer’s market, cruising along the water, stopping in a few shops and otherwise hanging in the mini parks.

We absolutely loved our accommodations. After Expedia canceled our hotel 48 hours before departure (!!!), we were in a panic. But Quinta das Acacias fit us in after a 2 a.m. local time call and we decided it was fate. We had our own free-standing apartment with laundry, a kitchen, outdoor lounge space and a grill – totally self-catering which is absolutely our traveling style. It allowed us to relax outside in the evenings drinking some wine by the chiminea-esque grill fire, not to mention cook up some amazing chorizo, fresh veggies and local fish. The botanical gardens around us were exquisite – and proved to be great crawl-space and entertainment for the baby. Horses on the adjacent property were also a hit!

Overall we felt this was a perfect destination for our first international trip with a baby. It wasn’t the most mind-blowing foreign location we’ve ever visited, but we weren’t looking for that. We wanted an easy, simple but interesting spot to explore, and we totally got that and then some. It was way more beautiful and mellow than I expected, and very manageable and adjustable based on the mood of the day and/or baby challenges along the way. If you’re tempted or hesitating to go here or anywhere with an infant, just book it. You’ll figure it out as you go and it’ll be a memorable experience no matter what. And it’ll make you stronger and more confident with your next adventure!

HIGHLIGHTS: Direct flight from Boston; all drives to points of interest from Ponta Delgada are 45-60 minutes max; traveling in June – long days, good weather, not high season yet; local food – organic fruits, veggies and fish and amazing pineapple everything (the jam was a daily indulgence on my Portuguese bolo bread); the island is clearly designed for the outdoor adventurer – picnic stops along the roads with outstanding coastal views, lots of hikes, beaches and activities galore; wild hydrangeas literally blooming along every roadside with serious force, so stunning; amazing supermarkets, some of the best we’ve ever seen when traveling internationally; otherwise, the cheap tasty wine, the good people, the beautiful land, it was all simple and lovely.

HINDSIGHT: A four-hour red-eye with a baby is not for the weak; in our case, the baby slept but we didn’t. Absolutely reserve your hotel for the night before you arrive so you can head straight there and all nap for a few hours. Never, ever use Expedia – they canceled our hotel two days before we left and were horrendous with rebooking. Would have loved to visit Ilheu Vila Franca Campo (island off the coast), or maybe check out fishing or whale watching, but didn’t look into how baby-friendly. Seeing other islands would be cool, and we’d be open to returning, but in our case we felt Sao Miguel was the perfect place to explore with an infant in tow and wouldn’t have changed a thing. We stayed on East Coast time for the baby’s sake and it worked well with the long days of summer. Made transitions much easier. Don’t plan to eat out – there are really only ‘snack stops’ with fast food-type items, unless you’re into that. Ponta Delgada is a safe, cute city that would be great to stay in, but we’re glad we were a step outside so we could get a break from busy city life, especially since renting a car is a must either way. We stayed 6 days, 5 nights and felt it was a perfect amount of time.